The Drop Holster     My personal favorite for full sized pistols worn openly, is the drop holster. This is the holster style favored by most police, and a variant of it is used in pistol competitions. The holster is stiff, and most have a snap swivel so that they may be used while the wearer is seated, as well as standing. The gun is held with the top open, and sits low on the hip, almost at thigh level. The draw is very fast, and weapon retention is good in the better designs, though mobility may be impaired somewhat. The open top makes for poor protection, and the gun, though not exposed to the wearer's body, is open to the elements. A drop holster will require a duty belt, such as a Sam Brown or similar model, worn outside of all layers of clothing, which can also hold magazine pouches, a flashlight, radios, etc. like a scaled down version of Batman's utility belt. Each of my full sized pistols has it's own integrated duty belt system. Notice how the drop holster puts the pistol unobtrusively right at the wearer's hand, for an extremely fast presentation. The earliest drop holsters were the old fashioned speed rigs associated with the cowboy. In reality, these rigs did not come along until the cowboy era was nearly ended, and did not enjoy great popularity until the fast draw competitions of the 1950's.

High Ride Hip Holster     I consider the best holster for every day use to be the high ride hip holster. This holster attaches to the wearers trouser belt, though a special heavy trouser belt (made by several holster makers) should be used, particularly for a full sized pistol. Ideally, the holster will cant forward a bit and should ride just behind the hip bone. When worn with a jacket, or sport coat, this is a pretty good concealment holster, and the draw can be quite fast with practice. This is also a very comfortable holster to wear. There is an inside the pants variant of this holster, which is very concealable indeed, and another variant which holds the pistol at a sharp angle (almost horizontal) in the small of the back (called an S.O.B. holster). The main problem with this class of  holster is that it holds the pistol so close to the wearer's body that it is constantly exposed to salt, humidity, lint and dirt. The open top design of this holster magnifies the problem. Of slightly less concern is that, particularly in the cooler months when much outer clothing is worn, this holster can be somewhat slow to draw from, though with practice the draw can still be fairly fast. I have holsters of this type, along with magazine pouches, for most of my full and medium frame pistols. The model shown to the left is a standard model, but skelitanized, for easier concealment, though most models cover more of the gun. Notice that, as cut down as the holster is, the trigger guard is covered. As with nearly all holsters of this type, the pistol is secured by a thumb break strap. Those new to concealed carry, along with some people who should know better, have taken to wearing this type of holster further forward, sometimes even around the belly. This is somewhat unsafe, and makes the gun less concealable, and more likely to print on the user. It can also actually make the presentation (the draw) slower.       The model shown to the right is an SOB model. This style was very popular a decade or two ago, but most people who go armed these days seem to be going back to the more traditional modes of carry. The SOB style also needs some practice to develop a proper draw. In the movie Taxi Driver, the main character used this type of carry for his Walther PPK. In real life, the gun can print through clothes, and can be rather obtrusive when sitting; not the best choice for a cab driver, or anyone else who spends considerable amounts of time sitting.

Inside The Pants Holster The inside the pants holster is a sort of a variation of the high ride holster. It rides in approximately the same place but, as the name implies, the gun rides inside the user's pants rather than outside. This type of holster conceals a bit better than the regular hip holster, but can be a bit slower to draw from. It also subjects the gun to more perspiration from the user's body. These can also be somewhat uncomfortable, sometimes jabbing the user in the hip. This is also not really a suitable design for women, or for some men who are beginning to get that middle aged roundness about the middle (I plead guilty). I have tried this holster type, and still have some inside the pants holsters, but it is not really a design that I care for. On top of everything else, this type of holster essentially adds a couple of inches to your waist, making pants and belt fit oddly. In my own case, I am constantly finding myself arranging my pants when using this type of holster, as they seem to always be slipping down. What might also be noticed from the photograph is a major design flaw in this particular holster. Note the spring clip which holds it onto the belt. This type of thing is begging for trouble, and makes this holster very insecure. Belt clips are always a bad idea, and I do not recommend them. There are documented examples of police officers, and suspects pulling guns, and drawing the holster out right along with the gun. Very embarrassing, and likely lethal. The better designs have loops and snaps to secure them around the belt.

Full Flap Holster      The standard flap holster is the choice for the military, and for most sportsman who carry out in the field. This holster offers the best security, the most protection, and the most comfort of any design; it's one drawback (so to speak) is that it is very slow.  Speed of draw is generally not critical for sportsmen or for members of the military (soldiers are rarely unaware that a battle is taking place, and the main weapon of a soldier is his rifle). Though some hang down almost like drop holsters, these holsters are generally worn fairly high, and in the center of the hip. This makes for a good distribution of weight, and keeps the pistol out of the way until needed. Weapon retention is so good that the wearer can run, jump, climb, even fall, and not lose his pistol. The weapon may be drawn as easily sitting as standing, and there is no better protection for a pistol outside of a sealed case. Like the drop holster, the full flap requires it's own belt, which is usually also used as a platform for the rest of the system (magazine pouches, even cleaning kits), and other gear. This is likely the oldest style of holster, evolving from the simple carry pouch. There is a variation of this holster, which I call the field holster, which uses a simple thumb break or retention strap and does not have the full flap.       I own only a single full flap holster (for the Walther P-38), and I couldn't find it when taking the photographs for this page. The photo shown is taken from a catalog on the web. The rig shown is the classic military pistol set which has been used by the United States during several wars. It also has a traditional dual magazine pouch, and classic leather pistol belt.

Shoulder Holster     The shoulder holster, though much glorified in movies, and T.V. does not find much favor with me. It may just be my build (a bit rounder than I would prefer), but this style of holster does not really suit me. The strength of this holster type is that it is possible to carry a large pistol, out of the way of everything, and still get a fairly fast draw whether sitting or standing. The weapon retention of this type of holster is fairly good, but it can "print" on the wearer, so that it can be seen that he is armed. It is very important that this type of holster be fitted properly, or it can be the most uncomfortable of all holster styles. Unlike most hip holsters, the shoulder holster is worn weak side, meaning the draw must pull the piece across the user's body. There is a cross draw option available for hip holsters, but it is a poor choice except for conditions under which the user is seated most of the time. Dirty Harry used a shoulder holster in the famous movie series, and I consider this type of holster to be the only real choice for the conditions depicted in those movies, but most people are not as big as Clint Eastwood, nor do most armed people carry 8 3/8" barreled, large frame revolvers under a sport coat. This is the only holster choice for very large pistols like the Thompson Contender, and is probably the best choice for very long pistols. I only have a couple of these, for some of my larger pistols. The unit shown is a "Dirty Harry" holster, and is holding a S&W Model 29 44 Magnum.

Ankle Holster       The ankle holster is suitable for for small automatics and revolvers. I have a holster of this type for my Walther PPK. The secret of using a holster like this is loose pants, heavy socks, and a good tight fit so that the gun does not ride around on your ankle. The ideal positioning of the piece is canted, with the barrel of the gun pointed down and back, behind the ankle bone. Even with everything configured properly, this holster is very intrusive to the wearer. I feel mine every time I take a step. The gun can not be worn with boots, and dress socks are out of the question unless you enjoy pain. The best way I have found to draw from this holster is to crouch ( a good idea anyway), and raise my pant leg with one hand while drawing the pistol with the other. I always wear this type of holster on the inside of the weak side leg, which nestles it in the hollow of the ball of the ankle. One advantage to this type of holster is that it is very difficult for your weapon to be taken from you, and the best drawing positions are good defensive postures. In any position other than a standing one, the ankle holster gives a fairly quick draw. I have been looking around, for years, for a way to carry spare magazines on the ankle, and have not been able to find an ankle mounted carrier for magazines. Finally, I made one from scrap leather, and a few strips of velcro. It works pretty well, is comfortable, and quite secure, since the magazines do not weigh much.

The Belly Band     The belly band holster is an excellent deep concealment design which may be worn with any style of clothing, and can offer a fairly quick draw with practice. Where hip and shoulder holsters require a jacket (though some inside the pants hip holsters can be worn under a sweatshirt or sloppy sweater), and ankle holsters require long pants of a certain style and careful shoe and sock selection, the belly band can conceal a weapon as long as the user is wearing a shirt.       The belly band is something like a big surgical or athletic bandage with a holster attached, and fasteners at the back. You wrap it around yourself like an old style corset, being careful to orient the gun properly. The first photo here shows the belly band put on over a ,T-shirt and the second shows it covered by a dress shirt, with a button open, showing the draw. The big bellied user may wish to wear the gun a bit high, while the deep chested individual may want to put it a little lower.  A T-shirt is required under the belly band or it will chafe, shift excessively, and get very uncomfortable, particularly during the warmer months when this holster would be the most useful.       The best way to use this type of holster is under a button shirt, with the button nearest, or just above the gun left open. To draw the gun you simply slip your hand inside the shirt and withdraw the piece. This is actually a pretty neat idea, and it will keep a gun concealed, and fairly quick at hand, even if the user is clad in shorts and a light summer shirt, tucked into the pants.       The biggest disadvantage is that this is suitable for very small guns only. I use mine for my Berretta M21 (small .22), and my M1955 (very small .25). Medium frame guns, like the Walther PPK, will fit in the holster, but they just don't work, and print conspicuously on the user. They  also weigh a bit too much, and can slide out of the holster, if the user jumps, rolls, or falls. I can also state from personal experience that this is a very uncomfortable design, and can shift somewhat as the user moves. If you want to be really slick, you can remove a button from the shirt, and sew it on over the button hole, so that the shirt will essentially look buttoned up when it is not. A patch of velcro can then be sewn to the inside, keeping the shirt closed, and normal looking, while allowing very rapid access to the gun in the belly band.

Magazines     Ten, twenty, and even twenty five, and thirty round magazines are offered for some models of automatic pistol. Twenty and   thirty round magazines are common for military style rifles, and even the knock around Ruger 10/22 has twenty five, and even fifty round magazines available. This is all despite the fact that production of new magazines which hold over ten rounds has been prohibited since September of 1994, except for distribution to our betters in government and police work. This ban will be ending in September of 2004, unless special steps are taken to renew it. As of this writing (April, 2004) it seems that the ban will be allowed to expire, though this will certainly generate the expected hysteria from the always unreasonable members of the left. What effect this will have on prices, production, and new firearms designs remains to be seen, though it can only be good for the consumer. In the meantime we have new production of blocked off magazines which are either dimpled to prevent full travel of the magazine follower, or are cut down, and then lengthened with extra long floorplates. I have no dimpled magazines, but the magazine in the middle of the photo above has been shortened and then given an extra long floorplate to reduce it's capacity from 14 rounds to the 10 round style with which civilian subjects can be trusted..

Drum and High Capacity     Various drum magazine styles are available for the Thompson (50 and 100), the Calico (50 and 100) the Luger (32), the Colt government (28, and 50), the AK47 (75), the AR-15 (75, 100, and 120), and the HK series (as large as 200, with double drums). These are all very expensive, and limited in numbers, because of the magazine ban. If the ban should expire, which seems likely, prices will drop, and supply will increase. One of the oddest drum magazines is a Thompson drum shell, which has been converted into a ten round magazine. This is for cosmetic purposes only, and I can see no reason to use a huge drum which holds only ten rounds. These ten round drums are selling for around $200, while actual 50 rounders are selling (to law enforcement only, of course) for about $300. For now, the pricing is insane, though I have seen some prices drop by as much as half, in anticipation of the expiration of the magazine ban. I can't wait to get my hands on some of these, and see how well they work. Pricing is really in flux right now, as there is some uncertainty over what the next year will bring. Dealers and collectors are torn between the desire to sell off their large capacity magazines while there is still a ban in effect to keep prices relatively high, or to hang onto them, in case the ban should be renewed, in which case, prices would skyrocket. Patience, patience. In the meantime, ten round compliant magazines are as cheap as dirt. Ironically, some day the ten round mags may be very valuable to collectors, as a dark example of silly items produced to comply with a foolish and short lived law.

Stripper Clips     Another charging device, generally associated with the rifle, is the stripper clip. These were first designed for bolt action rifles, though some semiautos, and even some pistols, use them. A stripper clip is a flat, narrow piece of metal with a lip rolled into each side. Cartridges are slid onto it and held by their extraction grooves onto the lip. In order to load a piece, the action is opened, and the cartridges are slid down into the magazine. Stripper clips can be used by most bolt action guns, and by the SKS, the M-14. and can be used to load the box magazines of most military rifles. The newer generation of assault rifles can not be loaded by stripper clip because a stripper clip will only work in an action which is open all the way to the magazine. Most military ammunition is still packaged onto stripper clips because, even if they can not be used directly for loading the rifles, they may be used to load the box magazines. A stripper clip will generally hold ten rounds, though the ones shown here only hold five.

Military ammunition is generally packaged on stripper clips. They can be used to load military box magazines by simply pushing the cartridges off of the clip, and down into the magazine. At one time, rifles could be loaded directly from clips, but there are few which permit this today. One of these is the M-14/M-1A rifle. Stripper clips can be used because of the rifle's open top design. Note the stripper clip guide, on top of the receiver, to facilitate fast reloading with stripper clips. This was a common feature on all battle rifles until after the Second World War.

Combat sights will tend to be rounded, and low, so as not to snag on clothing. these sights are generally fixed, as adjustable sights are a bit more delicate and can be prone to maladjustment.	Target sights tend to be large, squared off, and are generally adjustable. This is the Colt Elliason sight as mounted on the Gold Cup model.
The front sight of the Colt Detective Special is pure combat. It is essentially one large ramp, unlikely to snag on anything.	The Colt Front sight is typical target: large, square, and prone to snag. It does give an excellent sight picture however.

    Laser sights are getting to be more common, and, in their place, I rather like them. I presently only own one laser sighted gun (a Calico Pistol). The laser sight is at it's best indoors or in dim light outdoors at close range. This makes it totally unsuitable for the rifle, but a good choice for certain pistol and shotgun applications. The precision adjustments are similar to those on an adjustable pistol sight. Once properly set, the laser will show a small dot at the approximate point of bullet impact. Lasers are great for hip shooting, and are well suited to large pistols, or small carbines. This is the ideal short range sighting device. The laser sight has gotten very small, with the introduction of the laser diode. They use little power, and the batteries can last months or even years. They are also, as solid state devices, very rugged. Mine clamps on to the end of the barrel, but there are those which fit onto the trigger guard, and even some which fit inside of the gun, riding inside of the recoil spring, and are actuated by a slight pressure on the trigger. At present there is little application for this type of sight on a rifle. The exception to this is the infrared laser sight, coupled with an infrared sensitive sniper scope for night sniping. It is doubtful that laser sights will ever be made powerful enough for use on rifles, or at any distance during the day. A laser of this power would be dangerous to bystanders, as it could easily blind them. Present laser sights are all of about 1mw, though some as powerful as 5mw are available. (a milliwat is 1/1000 of a watt, which doesn't sound like much, but is easily capable of causing blindness).
    Right now, about the neatest sighting device available is the Holosight. This is a laser generated holographic sight which is presently available with a couple of different sighting patterns. The older model had a dozen or so different reticles available for different holographic patterns, including several 3D ones. I have a separate page devoted to the Holosight Model 400.
    Scopes are generally associated with rifles, but they are becoming more common on some magnum pistols, and special hunting pistols. Pistol scopes tend to be low powered (1x to 4x), and have a long eye relief. There is a bewildering assortment of glass for rifles, including ranging scopes, compact scopes, and some very powerful scopes. I have scopes on all of my rifles except for the lever actions, and three of the rifle scopes, including one which is an actual sniper scope, have the ranging feature. There are no scopes on any of my pistols. I go into a bit more detail on the subject, in my page on Battlesights.

The most common Sam Brown belt is made from a double thickness of leather, and is 2 1/4 inches wide. A dual buckle is used to help keep the weight of the belt and accessories from canting the buckle. The traditional leather belts are becoming less common. Many modern variations are now being made from nylon, sewn into two layers, with a stiffening layer in between, and a quick release buckle. Visible on the belt is a drop holster in the border patrol style with a simple retaining strap. Also on the belt is a dual speed loader holder.

The traditional Sam Brown belt has a strap going over the shoulder. This can bear some of the weight of accessories, but is mainly included to keep the belt from shifting. This type of belt began to go out of style in the seventies. It is most clearly associated with the police and military of the thirties, through the fifties.      Most Sam Brown belts use quick detachable fasteners, rather than buckles and notches. Typically these belts will hold a handgun, spare magazines or speed loaders, radios, flashlights, batons, pepper spray, handcuffs, and perhaps a set of gloves and a notebook. As the job of the military and police becomes more varied and complex, ever more carriers are designed for ever more tools. Modern military web systems use a set of suspenders to help bear the weight of the up to seventy pounds of gear that the modern soldier now needs to carry.

Pouches are available for all sorts of accessories, but the most common, and useful are magazine carriers. These come in a number of styles, but the most common are the open top, and the standard snap flap. Open top carriers hold the magazines by friction, and are the fastest, but slightly less secure. The classic snap flap style are sort of the magazine carrier version of the full flap pistol holster, and offer protection and security at the expense of speed. Some carriers give the option of being oriented either vertically or horizontally.