The Trinity Site
Some history, along with photos from a recent visit
The Trinity site is in southwestern New Mexico, within the White Sands Missile Range. It features several historical exhibits, as well as a marker, in the shape of a stone obelisk, which sits at the center (ground zero) of the site of the world's first nuclear explosion. GPS Coordinates for the obelisk are N33.40.636 W106.28.525. The site is open two days a year, on the first saturday of April, and the first saturday of October. There is no fee charged, the site is handicap accessible, and food, as well as rest room facilities are available at the site. You must have a picture I.D. to get inside of the missile range. Motorists should bring proof of insurance, and of vehicle registration, as these may be requested at the gate. I was not asked for mine. Firearms must be unloaded, and stored, and must be declared at the gate. I had to declare mine. Though I did not see it happen on my visit, automobiles are subject to search. The gate is open from 8:00 AM, until 2:00 PM. Cameras are allowed at Trinity Site; but their use is strictly prohibited anywhere else on White Sands Missile Range. A View of The Trinity Site - October
7th, 2006
Twice a year, on the first Saturday of April, and again on the first Saturday in October, the public is permitted to visit what may ultimately turn out to be the most important historical site in the world. This is the Trinity site, a part of the White Sands Missile Range, located in one of the most desolate parts of the country. The place doesn't look like much. In point of fact, it doesn't look like anything at all. If you are looking for the spectacular, the beautiful, or for a pristine work of nature, you will be disappointed. Go to Yellowstone instead, or perhaps the Grand Canyon. Trinity is for those who are looking for something a bit different. Life is not made to feel welcome here, and it exists, not on it's own terms, but only by making many concessions to the environment. This is a rather unusual attraction, hardly the kind of place that you think would draw thousands of visitors, on each of the two days a year that it is open. Unlike the more conventional national parks, civil war battlefields, nature preserves, and national monuments, this most unconventional tourist attraction, seems to attract a most unconventional type of tourist. It is not a place for a casual visit. In addition to only being open two days of the year, the site is in the middle of a military preserve, far from any other points of interest, and so far off of the beaten path, that not only is it difficult to find; but you will need to make certain that you have a full tank of gas before embarking. During the popular 170 mile round trip from Alamogordo, there are no services, gas stations, restaurants, or anything else. What you see here is a piece of desert, like countless other pieces of desert. It is hot, most of the time, barren all of the time, featureless, flat, and actually kind of dull, at least based upon superficial appearances. In order to get a feel for the real importance of the place, you have to look a bit more closely. There is the Obelisk, of course. It stands right at the center of ground zero, where the detonation actually took place. The peaked top seems to point to the location of the original atomic bomb, which was detonated 100 feet overhead, suspended from a gantry. The obelisk was erected by White Sands Missile Range in 1965 and is made from lava from the west boundary of the range. Though the heat of the nuclear explosion created Trinitite, the famous green glass of the nuclear age, rather than lava, the choice of materials seems quite appropriate. The desolation of the place is no accident. The Army didn't want people around. Decades latter, two days of the year not withstanding, it still doesn't. One of the best ways to make certain that there are no people around, is to go someplace where they are already absent. This describes the desert of southern New Mexico pretty well. In addition, the place is well watched, well guarded, and it's boundaries are prominently marked with warning signs. Scorpions and other creatures of the desert take no note; but humans need to keep out, except for the semi annual open houses. In my own case, I left early from the little town of Carizozo, NM. The town is located at the crossing of highways 380, and 54, in south central New Mexico. I had been considering a trip out here, for at least five years, ever since I had first read that the Trinity Site was open to the public. I had made this discovery, while researching what was to be a trip to the Minuteman Missile NHS. This, in turn, was discovered, while browsing the National Park Service website, in preparation for a summer vacation. I had assumed, correctly, that the Trinity site was restricted, and not open to the public. What I learned on the web was that the White Sands range opens the site, twice a year. So at 5:40 in the morning, I was up, and hitting the shower. Dressing, and packing up my motel room, I noted that it was just after 6:00 AM. I poked my head out of the door, and took a picture of the intersection of highways 380, and 54. It was still pretty dark out, and I fought the urge to crawl back into bed. I had been up pretty late the night before, not having fallen asleep until midnight or so. The motel room was large, comfortable, had cable, and a refrigerator as well as a microwave. I had checked in very early, around 1 PM, and spent the day lazing around. Cable was showing a series of westerns, including Pale Rider, ElDorado, and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Being in the Southwest, I felt a particular urge to watch all of these; but worse was to come. In the evening, the movie "Them" was shown. For those who are unfamiliar with the old fifties science fiction movies, the movie was set in southern New Mexico, and the plot revolved around a nest of gigantic ants, which were given their great size by being located too close to ground zero at the Trinity Site, the very place to which I was going. Around 6:30, I was finally ready, had microwaved myself a little breakfast, and had everything packed into my van. It was time to go. There was just a hint of light, in the cloudy sky, and the air was cooler than you would expect for New Mexico. All along the drive, I saw few cars, and no signs of what we like to call civilization, other than the road itself. I also saw no giant ants, no oversized grasshoppers, and no titanic tarantulas. Indeed, I saw no indications of mutants of any kind, unless they were mutated into invisibility. What I did see were incredibly deep indigo skies, and gold colored ground. These are not colors the way that they appear in my home state of Wisconsin. We tend to have more greens and browns, with a bit lighter shade of blue to our skies. Reaching the turn onto highway 525, after an hour of driving, I drove on a few miles, and saw my first indication that anything special was going on. An MP stood in the road, with an M-16 rifle. His truck was pulled to the side of the road, and there were some cones in place. He was quite friendly, and asked if I was going to the open house. He then explained that I should have my picture I.D. ready at the gate, and that I would need to declare any firearms that I had with me. Along the way, I saw numerous armed men. All were friendly, and seemed more like guides than guards. Still, guards they were. It was their job to insure that no one went into any areas of the range, other than the Trinity Site. I easily resisted the impulse to take their photographs. There are some things that you just don't do. I was about ten minutes early, at Stallion Gate, and there was a line of about twenty cars ahead of me, waiting for the gate to open at 8:00. We were met at the gate by MP's, and by volunteers, who passed out leaflets, and brochures. I was asked for my I.D. and if I had any firearms. When I admitted that there were two 45 automatics in a case, in the back of my van, I was ushered to the side of the road, where my license plate number was recorded. The MP then told me that there was no problem, and that I was welcome to pass through, but that I needed to leave the guns cased, and unloaded. The only thing close to a problem I had was when he saw me raise my camera to take a picture of the gate. He shook his head, and warned that photographs taken within the range, other than at the Trinity Site itself, would be cause for confiscation of my camera, and detainment. The military is pretty serious about this. There are still secret tests, and weapons development being carried on out here, and it is a rather touchy thing, allowing numbers of civilians onto a working missile range. Even if I mean no harm, you never know where a picture might end up, who might see it, or what might be learned from it's display. Needless to say, I put my camera in it's bag, and latched it shut. I did not come all this way, to spend a day sitting at a table explaining to a range officer why I took pictures of things that were not to be photographed. There is a 17 mile drive, through the missile range, to the Trinity Site. This is along a narrow two lane road, which winds it's way through hills, and desert. There are occasional intersecting roads, which were all coned off. From time to time I would see an MP, security guard, or military vehicle. Still, there seemed to be little overt military presence, though I have no doubt that the visitation was being monitored. Upon reaching the site itself, the first thing I saw was a large parking lot, with chalk lines marked out along it's length. We were directed to parking spots, and helped to line up our vehicles. Once I was properly parked, I loaded up my camera, and headed for the perimeter fence. There are two fences surrounding the Trinity Site. The outer fence is about a half mile in diameter, and is approximately at the boundary of the crater. The inner fence is much smaller, and encloses ground zero, the obelisk, a shed which opens to the original crater floor, some photographic exhibits, and what is left of the tower legs. There are also some other displays, including an early fat Man style atomic bomb casing. Between the two fences is a fenced in walkway. When you reach the site, you are walking on about ten feet of sand and soil, which covers the original crater floor. Approaching the inner fence, you pass a tent which houses a radiation exhibit, and is staffed by some of the radiation safety personnel of the range. Around the outer fence, is an information booth, "Jumbo" a huge steel cylinder which was 800 yards from the blast, a stop for a pair of buses which run visitors out to the McDonald ranch, and a food concession. The food was pretty good, and was not real expensive either. In the old days, visitors were not allowed to eat, smoke, or even to apply makeup at the site. This was due to fear of ingestion of any radioactive dust that might have been blowing around. After sixty years, though, any radioactive dust that is going to blow around has probably already blown away, or lost it's radioactivity. So now you can get yourself a nice hot dog, hamburger, bag of chips, and soft drink, before going into the inner perimeter. Visitors to the site were a varied lot. I heard a few foreign languages, but for the most part, visitors were American. I saw one girl who was obviously Japanese, though hardly old enough to have witnessed the nuclear detonations in her own country. I saw a large portion of older people at the site, and very few really young people. Most tended to range from middle age to elderly. I also noted several veterans groups, which is pretty understandable. At least one of these groups appeared to have been old enough to have served in W.W.II. People were very friendly, and very outgoing. I noticed little of the solemnity which I had half expected. Visitors were enthusiastic about the radiation exhibit, very entertained by Jumbo, and seemed entranced by the obelisk itself. Everyone seemed to want to touch it's rough lava surface. I saw people leaning up against it, and pushing at it, rubbing their hands across it. Eventually a line formed, of those who wished to have their photo taken next to the obelisk. The whole picture taking thing seemed a bit pretentious to me, sort of like getting the picture of aunt Mary, and uncle Bill standing in front of Old Faithful, or the Grand Canyon. So I didn't join in. Now I wish I would have. After spending some time with the radiation ladies, and their Geiger counters, I wandered back outside the outer fence, and looked at Jumbo, before hopping one of the buses, for the McDonald ranch house. This was the place where the bomb was actually assembled, and has been restored to it's approximate condition, during the test. The ranch is a comfortable looking stone structure, and was probably a pretty nice home, before the area was evacuated for the military. I gawked a bit, looked at all of the photographs, and wandered around the house. As with the obelisk, many visitors wanted to have their photos taken in front of the house. Though the house is completely restored, it is not furnished, and contains a few chairs, and the tables holding the displays. After about half hour or so, I took a bus back to the main site. Returning to the main area, I took one last stroll around the site, snapped a few more photos, and grabbed myself something to eat. I had spent about three hours here, total, and the place was now starting to fill up. The convoy had arrived from Alamogordo, as well as at least two buses, probably from Albuquerque. It was time to go. Picnic tables were set up, so that I could relax, and enjoy my meal, as I watched the people go to and around the site. A few seemed to feel the weight of what had happened here; but most were excited, happy, and very curious. I noticed that a large proportion of the men had hats, ties, jackets, or pins indicating former or current military service. Many of these men were older , and walked with the aid of canes, walkers, or simply used the shoulders of friends to lean upon. It made me wonder which wars they had served in, and what connection, if any, they might feel with the weapons which were proven here. Too much introspection is a certain indicator that it is time to leave.
So was it worth the trip? Absolutely! There is a sudden realization that comes, after milling about the place for a while, of what actually happened here, and of what has happened in the decades since, because of what happened here. So would I go back? Probably not, at least not by myself. It is the kind of place that I would take children, grandchildren, or interested friends; but not the kind of place that I need to see again for myself. Once you have seen the site, you have seen it for life. While the Trinity site is not hidden or secret, there is restricted entry, and the the whole area is rather secluded. The nearest town, that of Socorro, is 43 miles away, over two lane roads which twist through mountains and desert. The city of Alamogordo, which is considered by most to be the gateway to Trinity, is 85 miles away. For those who worry about being lost, or about mechanical breakdowns, a caravan leaves Alamogordo at 8:00 A.M., from the fairgrounds. There are also buses going out from several locations. I have listed the bus tours offered, and prices in the table below; but please contact the groups to make certain, since things are always subject to change. There are, doubtless, other tours being offered; but these are the ones of which I am aware. Most tours offer other stops, lunches, movies, etc. Please call contacts to get details.
Taking the Caravan
A group meets at Alamogordo, NM, for a caravan drive
out to the Trinity Site. The group forms at the Otero County Fairgrounds
parking lot on U.S. 54/70 in Alamogordo. This is probably the most popular
way to get there. The Alamogordo Chamber of Commerce sponsors the convoy.
Line up begins at 7:15, and the convoy leaves at 8AM.. Visitors entering
this way will travel as an escorted group to and from Trinity Site. The
drive is 170 miles round-trip and there are no service station facilities
on the missile range, so you will want to tank up before leaving. This tour
will enter through the Tularosa Gate at 8:30AM, and arrive at Trinity Site
around 10:00AM. The convoy is scheduled to leave Trinity Site at 12:30 or 1 PM., depending upon its size, for the return to Alamogordo. The convoy may leave later if there are a large number of vehicles returning to Alamogordo. Visitors wishing to stay a bit longer may do so; but will need to exit through the Stallion gate, as the Tularosa gate is only open to the convoy. For information, call 505-437-6120 or 800-826-0294. Driving by Yourself
The Trinity Site is located within the White Sands
Missile Range, 22 miles off of Highway 380. This is a different entrance
from the one used by the Alamogordo caravan. Though I was a bit concerned
about the possibility of getting lost or stranded, this did not turn
out to be a problem. Mapquest could not find the Trinity site, nor the
Stallion gate; neither could the GPS mapping system (Microsoft Streets and
Maps) installed on my laptop. In addition to this, the location is marked
on the New Mexico state map; but the roads and paths were not shown at all.
I have included a scan, to the right, of this area of the official highway
map, for the state of New Mexico. As can be seen, the map is just a big blank,
once you get off of Highway 380. Using the GPS coordinates, I Was able to
get the location to show up in my mapping program; but it could still not
find the roads, nor map me a route. With a certain amount of trepidation,
I left my motel room, at 6:30 AM, and started on what I hoped was the way
to Trinity. I need not have worried. The route was easy, and direct. Simply stay on highway 380, until it meets New Mexico 525 South. And then take 525 to the Stallion Gate. The turnoff point is located about 12 miles east of San Antonio, NM, and 50 west of Carizozo, NM. It is clearly marked, on the road if not on the maps, and is nearly impossible to miss. So don't worry about it; just go. It is five miles down NM 525, from highway 380, to the Stallion gate. From stallion, it is another 17 miles to Trinity. Once you are within the missile range, there will be signs and the roads will be blocked off, except for the road to Trinity. The military does not want visitors getting lost on the range any more than the visitors do themselves. Though the drive turned out to be pretty simple, I have posted photos and directions anyway, in part because the way is so scenic. Driving to Trinity
Trinity Links
Needless to say the Trinity site, The Manhattan Project, and the whole subject of nuclear weapons, physics, and atomic energy are fascinating subjects, and have generated numerous books, movies, and websites. Below are a few that I visit, and some that I have used in researching for my trip, and for this page. Particularly fascinating is the High Energy Weapons Archive, listed below, which has history, descriptions, and photographs of just about every nuclear weapon ever deployed. It also contains a great section explaining the different types of devices, how they work, and how the various materials which go into their construction are produced. In addition to this, it contains a number of photographs, and movies, of actual nuclear explosions. One other great source of nuclear information, and photographs, is the book 100 Suns, by Michael Light. |